Christmas in Kingston, 1881

Falmouth Gazette, January 6, 1882, page 3,

  What an English gentleman now on the southside

  writes of Jamaica in general, and Kingston

  in particular.

 And now I come to the Christmas festivities. Bending my steps to the Victoria Market with a friend, at about 6 a.m. on Monday the 26th, to witness the turning out of all Kingston, I was most agreeably surprised to see, instead of a crowd of roughs, an immense gathering of people of all classes and hues, such as I had never in all my travels in many Countries seen before. It was, in truth, a real Carnival, eclipsing, for splendour and order, and kindly displays of earnest good feelings, any similar gathering I had met in dear England, or in France, Italy, Germany, or America. Can it be possible, I frequently asked myself, that this is Jamaica of which I have read and heard at home so many frightful stories of its utter demoralization, wickedness, and all manner of hideous vices? Can these thousands of black and colored folks so orderly, graceful, and superbly attired in costly apparel be the same Jamaicans of whom I had heard at home that they were all little better than brutes, and that centuries yet unborn would not find them civilised and better than the rudest Savages. In that enormous concourse which I scanned on that, to me, memorable morning, I saw no person drunk, disorderly, or troublesome. In that heaving crowd, stretching from the sea-board up far away to the Parish Church, there were old and young, Wives, Mothers, and even little Children, and Infants in arms, all dressed splendidly and arresting the wondrous surprise of thoughtful and quiet spectators like myself. I sincerely believe that neither in England nor Scotland, and certainly not in Ireland, could such an immense gathering of people have been seen, in which order sobriety and good manners prevailed so conspicuously as in and about the Victoria Market of Kingston on that lovely day, the 26th December.

 “Good morning Mas William” said a portly black Dame, magnificently dressed in colored silk, with foreign ringlets about her neck, and valuable ornaments to match her robe &c. “ I wish you a Merry Christmas and I hope God will bless you and Misses and de Children and make you all see many more.” These kind words were addressed to my good friend beside me, and I need hardly add that he grasped the hand offered, and responded in terms which proved that he possessed a gentle and a noble heart. “And who is dis Gentleman wid you (alluding to me) he come from over de water ?” I was at once introduced, and received my first warm grip from the hand of one of the despised race. “Glad to see you Sa, wish you a Merry Christmas, hope you won’t get sick, you must keep out of de Sun and don’t sit up late at night, and don’t eat too much fruit and drinkliquor pon it.” As the advice was useful to me a teetotaller, I promised faithful obedience. Then suddenly calling two pretty young Maidens, who had strolled away from her, she brought them up and introduced them. These young Ladies were her Grand-daughters of fair complexion, graceful manners, and superb apparel. How strange all this to me - Grand-mother black, and Grand-children white. It was all explained to me in time, and again I had to deplore the profligacy and wickedness of white men who have brought so much shame and misery on the native women of Jamaica. The above greetings, which from personal experience I have attempted to describe are but a grain in the enormous hillock of congratulations, good wishes, blessings and handshakings piled up on the advent of the “Prince of Peace” who came into the world to ransom and save all, of every creed and clime.

  I must not forget the good things provided within the well kept and attractive market buildings. In the flesh market there was a fine and abundant display of Beef &c. Better and more succulent meat I never beheld, but the Cutters should be taught to use their knives and cleavers like English Butchers, and avoid hacking and slashing the joints and choice pieces. The Mutton was only fit for the kennel, and scarcely good enough for valuable hounds. I have, however, eaten Kingston Mutton from the Farm of a person of the name of Hockins, and for quality and flavor not to be surpassed at home. It was a pity to see the poor stuff exhibited in the Victoria Market on the 26th. Of fruits there was an abundance and very moderately priced, considering the enormous fees levied on all who vend their goods in the pretty, but expensive building. But I must not mar the pleasure and real happiness I have felt in witnessing Christmas in Jamaica -- a land truly of Springs, beautiful skies, magnificent scenery, and wonderful climate. I can never cease to pour out my gratitude to Jamaica for the marvels it has worked in my health and spirits. That person who would call it “a God for-saken hole” must be lost to all sense of truth.